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Topwater Techniques and Tactics

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by Terry Robertson

Finally, fall is here! The temperatures are cooling off and the bites are heating up. Many of the other anglers who compete for the same water will be sitting up a tree for the next few months making less lake congestion for me.  But that’s not the only thing I enjoy about fall fishing.

Fall is topwater time for me. The thrill of seeing a bass explode on the surface of the water is what keeps me fired up. Some anglers may disagree, but I move topwater baits to the forefront of my fishing tactics each fall. 

As the days grow shorter, and the temperatures grow cooler, the fish notice and breathe a sigh of relief, just as we do. The cooler water temperatures signal to the fish that winter is only a short time away, and the bass know it is time to fatten themselves up for the long cold spell ahead. When the water temperatures begin to drop in autumn, the shad and other bait fish make their moves to the shallower water in the backs of creeks, and shallow flats on the main lake to feed and spawn. The bass soon follow to feed on the shad. The productivity of these main lake shallow flats increase as the temperatures decrease, especially those that are in close relation to deep water drop-offs that bass can retreat to in the event of a hard cold front. 

Schooling shad in the autumn can often be seen breaking the surface of the water, especially when a predatory fish is nearby trying to feed on them. The bass concentrate on any disturbance on the surface when hunting shad, this makes the surface-running topwater baits top-shelf lures this time of year. Since the bass are already looking up, and the topwater baits are able to stay in view and entice the bass for a longer stretch on each cast, it stands to reason that these baits are very effective during this season. Unlike the summer season, topwater baits this time of year are all-day baits. Early morning, high-noon, or late evening, topwaters are effective.

Getting Geared Up

Rods – This can be as easy or as complicated as you want to make it. Many anglers use a different rod for each type of topwater bait. I prefer to keep it simple. Most topwater baits can be fished with a 7-foot medium-heavy rod. I prefer the slightly shorter 6 foot 6 inch medium-heavy St. Croix Avid for most of my topwater fishing. I do use a longer rod with some of the larger baits. Use what fits you and feels good, has a strong spine, and a softer tip. Choose a length that allows you to work the lure without slapping the water with the tip. 

Reels – As above, there is not one right answer. A quality 7.0:1 gear ratio bait caster is a great starting point. A faster reel can come in handy on some presentations where you are working the bait on a slack line and need to play catch-up on a hook set. I prefer a 7.3:1 for most topwater presentations. 

Line – Stay away from fluorocarbon because it sinks and works against a topwater lure. 20-pound monofilament line will handle most of what you can throw at it, or throw it at. My choice is 30-pound braid with a 15-pound monofilament leader for most topwater applications. 

Topwater options are seemingly endless. There is no way to discuss them all, so I’ll list my favorites for enticing a surface explosion.

1. Buzzbaits – (Booyah Buzz / Strike King Hack Attack) These bladed baits are my beginning point when trying to locate active bass. They are very simple to fish and make a loud commotion that a bass finds hard to resist. Fishing a buzzbait is as simple as cast it to the bank, along a grass line, or other target area and reel it in just fast enough to keep the bait running on the surface. These are “old-school” baits that are still very effective. I use white on days with bluebird skies, and black when skies are overcast.

2. Frogs – (Toad Thumper Ghost / Booyah Pad Crasher) Soft hollow-body frog baits are my go-to baits for tough country. Lilly pads, grass, sticks, stems, rocks, timber, or any vegetation or matted surface cover, frogs can be fished effectively when anything else stays hung up. A lot of missed fish are attributed to these baits, to no fault of their own. You can’t set the hook on the blow-up or you’ll miss every time. Upon the blow-up, I count to 3 or wait until I feel the weight of the fish before setting the hook. Early morning and late evenings are best, when real frogs are active.

3. Poppers – (Rebel Pop-R / Strike King Splash) Floating lures with a concave cupped face create a “glug-glug-glug” sound and visual disturbance on retrieve. I usually will do a sequence of 3 or 4 pops and then stop, before beginning the sequence again. Oftentimes, the strike will come on the stop. Poppers can be fished slow or fast, and are effective in nearly all conditions. They really stand out on overcast days fishing clear water. I try different speeds and cadences until I get a bite. I then try to repeat that cadence and speed.

4. Walking Baits – (Zara Spook / Berkley Cane Walker) Cigar-shaped lures that float on the surface. “Walking the dog” requires a little practice for proficiency. Walking baits mimic an injured baitfish, especially when using red treble hooks. I use them mainly in calm conditions.

5. Jerk Baits – (Strike King Sexy Shad / Rapala X-Rap) May float, sink, or suspend in the water. They are long-bodied narrow lures shaped like bait fish and have a narrow lip that allows the lure to dive under water and gives them an erratic swimming action. Jerk baits work best in clear water to trigger a reaction strike.

When the leaves change colors and begin to fall and the baitfish head to the shallows, the hungry bass will, too. Anglers should follow for a successful day on the lake. Tie on a topwater bait and get ready for a surface explosion that’s sure to get your blood pumping.

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